Frameskin kits are custom-shaped to protect the key areas on your bike typically at risk from scuffs, scratches and scrapes. It isn’t bulletproof or a magical force field for your bike but it has proven very good at keeping the nasties off many bikes to date. Frameskin kits are made using premium grade paint protection films, that have been developed specifically to protect paintwork from stone chips. They have outstanding durability and outdoor performance, with excellent UV light, humidity and salt spray resistance. Frameskin offers excellent protection from stone chips, scrapes, cable and boot rub and will keep your bike looking better for longer and will improve resale value over bikes with no paint protection.
Frameskin is best applied using a wet application method. Moisture on both the frame and the decal allows for easy slip positioning so you can put the decal where you want it. We also suggest using warm soapy water as - with added warmth - the media softens to become more pliable/conformable to the frame’s lines. When installing the thicker standard gloss film, a domestic hair dryer may prove handy to soften the media and evaporate excess moisture. Simple curved areas and small shapes may not need heat to go down well. Added heat is not generally required for Premium thin or Ultra Matte film.
The aim of careful application is to have no air or water bubbles trapped underneath the film for the best finish.
1. The supplied mini squeegee will assist in chasing bubbles from beneath the media as you stick it to the frame. Your will find your fingers also do a very good job at chasing bubbles and helping the film to sit down on the frame. What you can't easiliy apply using the squeegee, your fingers will.
2. A container of hot water with a few of drops of dish washing liquid (Solution)
3. A hair dryer.
4. A spray bottle filled with water.
The parts diagram is labelled to be as descriptive as possible, but take your time to work out just where each piece goes before launching in. Note: In some cases the position of decals in the parts diagram will be different to its position in the Frameskin kit. This is done to better illustrate how decals align with others (i.e. some top tubes involve multiple pieces, so it is instructive to see how they fit together). Again, take your time to work out which part is which. Move the handlebar and work the rear suspension to view how the cables travel across/against the frame. If you are uncertain which way up a particular decal goes you can contact me for advice. The bigger the decal, the more challenging it can be, so start small and gain confidence and experience as you go. There are often a number of extra dots of various size for where you feel a decal would prevent rub/wear. Reading instructions does make a difference, so please do so. Oh, and be good to your Mum.
Decals can be applied dry, though we only recommend wet application as it will offer a degree of slip positioning to allow you optimise the positioning of larger decals. Wet application is a safer option as you get more goes at getting the placement correct and the end result is invariably better.
CLEAN YOUR FRAME:
Make sure the frame is thoroughly cleaned and free of grit/grease/oil/lint. Clean it twice to be sure. Pay particular attention to areas like the head tube, bottom bracket and drive side stays (anywhere grease and lubricant are used) as any residual grease and lubricant will affect adhesion. Make sure your hands are very clean and don’t touch the adhesive side if possible.
Spray a fine mist of water onto the area of frame you are applying the decal to. Dip your fingers into the solution, then peel the decal from its backing*. Dip the decal into the solution. Position the decal over the frame as accurately as possible to where you want it and from one end, use your fingers to press one end of the material onto the frame. Using the squeegee (and your fingers) to walk the material down onto the frame making sure that it is following the line you have chosen and that no air bubbles are trapped underneath the surface. Work from the centre line of the decal outwards, use the squeegee or your fingers to expel any bubbles (of air or moisture). You can use a hair dryer to help dry off the areas of the decal that are not sitting down completely and to help the film conform to the frame. Note: Because the decal is wet, this can take a little while... so take your time (press your thumb on it) and do the best job you can.
* With some film types, it is sometimes hard to find the edge of a shape in the kit (Premium Gloss Thin and Ultra Matte films in particular). You may need to look at the decal sheet from a number of directions, or different light to see the edge. In certain circumstances the decal may be a little harder to peel out (as the material is thin). In this case, try to catch an edge with your fingernail and peel out slowly... taking time to weed out small notches and openings for cable stops.
Let the decals dry fully (at least a few hours or overnight). We recommend you inspect your job at this point to ensure that all the edges are sitting down (as any residual moisture will have evaporated off by now). You can press the edges down with your thumb.
REMOVAL OF DECALS: If you wish to remove or replace the decals at some point in the future, do not just yank them off. Doing so can remove clear coat or paint. Warm the decal with a hair dryer as this softens the adhesive. Use your fingernail to lift an edge and slowly peel the decal off. Take care, and take your time. Done correctly, the removal will leave no adhesive residue behind. Note: Touch up paint under the decal may come off with the adhesive.
Disclaimer: The techniques described here are intended as an overview of the vinyl manufacturers’s suggested installation and removal methods. No responsibility is implied or given for property damage, injury or any other liability resulting from the use of these methods, or the installation of decals on any surface. If you are not confident about applying the decals yourself, consult a professional vinyl signage installer for advice/assistance. These kits are designed and made by me, and are not connected with any bicycle manufacturer.